This is just a list of stuff learned from reading on the interwebz and mostly never tried at the time of writing. I'm just taking notes for myself here. Correct me at the cbox if I'm wrong.
Paints & Coats
-Lacquer, Enamel, & Acrylic
Aparrently paints and coats have this heatscore(forgot what its called so Imma use hilarious terms) thing. Basically just a ranking of how reactive their solvents are represented by levels of red hot smexiness. The hotter they are the more dangerous they are. The hot paints tend to ruin cooler paints if applied on top, so it's best to apply hotter paints first.
Lacquers are the hottest, they mess with all the other pains if they go on top and may even harm the plastic. Although they may be difficult to use, they give the best results and are often used for extemely glossy finishes. Mr. Color paints are Lacquer based.
Next is enamel, they may still affect plastic but are weaker. These are apparently more durable than acrylic paints and less likely to chip, but I don't knwo if lacquer paints are stronger than enamel. Tamiya enamel paints are...duh.
Acrylic paints are coolest. They are usually water based(but sometimes in acrylic solvent), and won't affect other pains or plastic. Once a layer of acrylic paint is fully dried and cured, water or another layer or acrylic paint cannot affect it. Tomiya Acrylic paint is obviously acrylic as well as Aqueous Hobby Color which is also made by the same company as Mr. Color/Hobby
I don't know where oil based or other paints rank on this. Acetone base is likely hotter than lacquer.
Clear Coat
Some sort of glossy clear coat can be applied after painting and before applying decals and panel lines to make decals and planel lines stick on to the kit more effectively. This does not mean it is the final protective top coat.
Water Slide Decals
-Mr. Mark Setter & Mr. Mark Softer
Apparently there are two main explanations of what they do. here is the first one I learned:
Mr. Mark Softer is the weaker of the stuff. they are essentially the same things. Softer is used first and dissolves decals a little so it becomes less rigid and more easily wraps around uneven surfaces.
Mark Setter is used last to further dissolve the decal along with the plastic so they adhere to each other.
both are applied over the decal once it is in position
now I have the second story on this stuff and I believe this one more.
Mark Setter is the weaker of the two. It also contains adhesives. It is applied on the plastic first, and then the decal is applied over it before positioning. The setter will then partially dissolve and stick the plastic and decals together. the decal can be moved before it dries. Once it is positioned, Mark Softer is applied on top. Being the stronger of the two it dissolves the decal a lot. the purpose of the Softer is to give the decal a softer hand painted look, and will make the clear edge almost completely disappear. once Softer is applied, the decal cannot be moved and there is no turning back. the decal will proceed to wrinkle and shrivel up in a matter of seconds. at this stage, it is not to be touched no matter what. once it cures, it will be smoothe and flat again and also have the hand painted look.
I think this second explanation is the real thing because I saw a video of the Mark Softer take effect in a matter of seconds, there is no way it could be used before the Mark Setter. So whoever is going by this explanation seems to know their stuff.
Mark Setter and Mark softer have no effect on clear stickers. Currently it is unknow to me whether ther are effects on dry transfers decals.
Paints & Coats
-Lacquer, Enamel, & Acrylic
Aparrently paints and coats have this heatscore(forgot what its called so Imma use hilarious terms) thing. Basically just a ranking of how reactive their solvents are represented by levels of red hot smexiness. The hotter they are the more dangerous they are. The hot paints tend to ruin cooler paints if applied on top, so it's best to apply hotter paints first.
Lacquers are the hottest, they mess with all the other pains if they go on top and may even harm the plastic. Although they may be difficult to use, they give the best results and are often used for extemely glossy finishes. Mr. Color paints are Lacquer based.
Next is enamel, they may still affect plastic but are weaker. These are apparently more durable than acrylic paints and less likely to chip, but I don't knwo if lacquer paints are stronger than enamel. Tamiya enamel paints are...duh.
Acrylic paints are coolest. They are usually water based(but sometimes in acrylic solvent), and won't affect other pains or plastic. Once a layer of acrylic paint is fully dried and cured, water or another layer or acrylic paint cannot affect it. Tomiya Acrylic paint is obviously acrylic as well as Aqueous Hobby Color which is also made by the same company as Mr. Color/Hobby
I don't know where oil based or other paints rank on this. Acetone base is likely hotter than lacquer.
Clear Coat
Some sort of glossy clear coat can be applied after painting and before applying decals and panel lines to make decals and planel lines stick on to the kit more effectively. This does not mean it is the final protective top coat.
Water Slide Decals
-Mr. Mark Setter & Mr. Mark Softer
Apparently there are two main explanations of what they do. here is the first one I learned:
Mr. Mark Softer is the weaker of the stuff. they are essentially the same things. Softer is used first and dissolves decals a little so it becomes less rigid and more easily wraps around uneven surfaces.
Mark Setter is used last to further dissolve the decal along with the plastic so they adhere to each other.
both are applied over the decal once it is in position
now I have the second story on this stuff and I believe this one more.
Mark Setter is the weaker of the two. It also contains adhesives. It is applied on the plastic first, and then the decal is applied over it before positioning. The setter will then partially dissolve and stick the plastic and decals together. the decal can be moved before it dries. Once it is positioned, Mark Softer is applied on top. Being the stronger of the two it dissolves the decal a lot. the purpose of the Softer is to give the decal a softer hand painted look, and will make the clear edge almost completely disappear. once Softer is applied, the decal cannot be moved and there is no turning back. the decal will proceed to wrinkle and shrivel up in a matter of seconds. at this stage, it is not to be touched no matter what. once it cures, it will be smoothe and flat again and also have the hand painted look.
I think this second explanation is the real thing because I saw a video of the Mark Softer take effect in a matter of seconds, there is no way it could be used before the Mark Setter. So whoever is going by this explanation seems to know their stuff.
Mark Setter and Mark softer have no effect on clear stickers. Currently it is unknow to me whether ther are effects on dry transfers decals.
